24. Juli: Tablelands til Cape Anguille

Vi startede dagen med morgenmad i tantes køkken, som så meget autentisk ca. 1950 ud. Der var tyttebærmarmelade til det ristede brød. Det er en Newfie-specialitet kaldet partridge berries eller squash berries, som vi har fået flere steder ligesom bakeapples, også kaldet cloudberries, som er multebær, og sortebær, som her kaldes crowberries.

Så kørte vi videre ud langs fjorden til et Gros Morne nationalparkens Visitor Centre, hvor vi købte adgangsbilletter til parken og så en film om Tablelands, som er nogle meget anderledes røde bare bjerge. Filmen forklarede, at de egentlig er den oprindelige havbund i et hav som har delt den østlige og vestlige del af Newfoundland, men som så pga. de teutoniske pladers forskydninger er blevet presset op og blevet til bjerge.

Fra Visitor Centre kørte vi lidt ud langs med bjergene og gik en tur, før vi fortsatte helt ud til den lille by Trout River, hvor vi drak kaffe og spiste blåbærmuffins fra tante, mens vi skuede ud over St Lawrence bugten og filosoferede over tilværelsen 😉

Ind i landet igen og sydpå af TransCanada Highway til Stephenville, hvor vi kørte en afstikker ind i den lille by, som mindede os om små amerikanske byer, vi før har kørt igennem. Vi spadserede en tur op og ned af Main Street, kiggede på et par forretninger og købte kager og kaffe, som vi indtog ved et mindesmærke for de faldne i verdenskrigene – nok nær den grimmeste plads vi nogensinde har set! En afstikker med en anderledes form for sightseeing – men mindst lige så interessant som fine gamle huse, kirker og landskaber.

Inden vi nåede helt ned til havnebyen Port-aux-Basques, hvorfra vi skal sejle i morgen, svingede vi vestpå til Newfoundlands vestligste punkt, Cape Anguille. For en uge siden begyndte vi vores besøg på The Rock med at køre tur tæt påøens sydligste punkt. Senere på turen har vi skuet ud over det østligste punkt nær hovedstaden St John’s og spist frokost på det nordligste punkt med udsigt (næsten) til Grønland, så hvad er mere passende end at slutte her på det vestligste punkt. Vi kørte helt ud til fyret, får vi skal overnatte i fyrmesterens hus i nat. Vi nåede lige en lille gåtur langs stranden, før vi skulle spise aftensmad i fyrmesterens stue – en lækkert hjemmelavet middag, bestående af chilisuppe, årets første torsk med grøntsager og rabarberkage til dessert. Under middagen sludrede vi med de to andre hold gæster ved bordet, som var fra henholdsvis Belgien og Toronto, og bagefter kunne vi nyde den mest fantastiske solnedgang over havet.

English version:

We started the day with breakfast in aunt Jane’s very authentic ca. 1950s kitchen. There was toast with partridge berry jam – a Newfie speciality also known as squash berries (you may know them as lingon berries if you’re an IKEA shopper), which we have had several times in Newfoundland as well as bakeapples, also called cloudberries (a bit like yellow raspberries) and crowberries (black berries found on moors).

Then we drove out along the bay to one of the national park visitor centres, where we bought a day pass for the park and saw a film about Tablelands, which are some really distinctive bare red mountains. The film explained that they were originally the ocean floor of an ocean that separated the eastern and western part of Newfoundland, but because of the upheaval of the Teutonic plates they were pushed up above sea level and became mountains (or that’s the way I understood it – if you want a more scientific explanation – google it!).

From the visitor centre we drove out along the Tablelands mountains and went for a walk before continuing on to the small village of Trout River, where we drank our coffee and ate the blueberry muffins we got from aunt Jane this morning, while we looked out over the Gulf of St Lawrence and wondered about life.

Back inland again and south along the TransCanada Highway until Stephenville, where we made a detour into the small town, which reminded us a lot of many small American towns that we have driven through on earlier trips. We walked up and down the Main Street, looked into a few shops and bought coffee and cakes, which we devoured next to a memorial for the fallen soldiers of the two world wars – probably the ugliest such that we have ever seen! But seeing small town Canada like this is just as interesting sightseeing as fine old house, churches or landscapes, we think.

Before we reached the south coast of the island with the ferry port of Port-aux-Basques, from which we’ll be sailing tomorrow, we turned westwards to the most western point of the island, Cape Anguille. A week ago our visit to the Rock began with a drive near the most southern  point of the island. Later in the week we looked out over the most eastern point near St John’s and had lunch at the most northern point near L’Anse aux Meadows, so what could be more fitting than ending our visit here at the most western point. We drove all the way out to the lighthouse, as we will be staying at the lightkeeper’s lodge tonight. We just had time for a short walk along the shore before dinner in the lightkeeper’s dining room – lovely homemade food – soup, the first cod of the year and rhubarb cake for dessert. During the meal we chatted with the two other couples at the table, who were from Belgium and Toronto, and afterwards we admired the beautiful sunset over the ocean.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

23. Juli: Mors lille Ole i skoven gik…

I dag gik det op for os, at denne kendte danske børnesang umuligt kan være dansk! Men mere om det senere.

Vi startede dagen med halvtåge og halvregn som i går – almindeligt kedeligt dansk sommervejr – som man næsten kan komme til at sætte pris på, når man hører om hedebølgerne mange andre steder i verden.

I dag gik turen sydpå igen – dog først med en afstikker ned langs østkysten til fiskerlejet Conche, hvor vi havde hørt, at lokale kvinder havde broderet en moderne udgave af Bayeux-tapetet. Den 70 meter lange broderede “tegneserie”er tegnet af en kunstner og broderet af tolv lokale kvinder (det tog tre år). Broderiet minder meget i stil med forlægget med borter foroven og forneden med små sidehistorier. Det fortæller historien om området French Shore – den franske kyst – navngivet fordi franske fiskere fra Bretagne i en årrække kom over hver sommer og fiskede (senere blev det overtaget af englændere). Ligesom forlægget er der forskellige humoristiske indslag og tekster med kommentarer til historien. Utroligt flot lavet.

På vejen væk fra Conche stoppede vi ved en lang trætrappe op til en udsigtsplatform. Som I kan se af billedet, var der en superfin udsigt til – ingenting – deroppefra!

Efter en hurtig frokost i flækken Roddickton, blev vi nysgerrige, da vi så et skilt til en “underground salmon pool, så vi kørte ind ad en hullet vej, parkerede og fulgte skiltene. Vi fandt godt nok en flod, som løb igennem et stykke klippe, men vi kunne ikke komme tæt nok på til at se, om der rent faktisk var laks i den.

Så vi fortsatte turen sydpå, hvor vi mange steder så små indhegnede køkkenhaver med bl.a. kartofler, som var anlagt langs med vejen men milevidt fra nogen beboelse. Vi gættede på, at de var anlagt der, fordi jorden andre steder er for dårlig til at dyrke noget. De var alle forsvarligt  hegnet ind, sikkert fordi her skulle være ret mange elge i området. Vi så imidlertid ingen på vores vej. Til gengæld så Ole om formiddagen en sort bjørneunge ved vejkanten. Den løb dog væk, før jeg nåede at se den, så jeg drillede ham i et stykke tid med, at han måttehave set syner. Men om eftermiddagen så vi begge to en anden bjørneunge, som også løb i vejkanten, og denne gang nåede vi at stoppe og fotografere den! Og så var det vi kom til at tænke på “Mors lille Ole i skoven gik” og blev enige om, at den da måtte være oversat fra svensk – for bjørne har vi da trods alt ikke haft i danske skove i mange hundrede år!

Sidst på dagen kørte vi igen gennem den smukke Gros Morne National Park med de store dystre bjerge på nordsiden af fjorden Bonne Bay, og fortsatte tilbage langs sydsiden af den til den lille by Woody Point, hvor vi skulle overnatte i Aunt Jane’s B&B i et gammelt hus, som mere eller mindre stadig så ud som da tante boede der! Vi snuppede en burger i retro-dineren overfor. Vi kunne se, at de lokale samledes og slog sig ned i campingstole foran byens lille fiskefabrik for at se udendørsforestilling af “ET”, men vi foretrak at gå tidligt i seng i med vores bøger i stedet for. Ole er nu kommet sig over sin forkølelse – men selvfølgelig ikke uden at smitte mig 🙁

English version:

As children we learnt a song called “Mors lille Ole i skoven gik” about mummy’s little Ole, who went for a walk in the woods, picked blueberries and shared them with a bear – you can listen to it here:

 Mors Lille Ole I Skoven Gik

We’ve always thought of it as a Danish children’s song, but today we realised it couldn’t possibly be! But more about that later.

We started the day with some rain and some fog like yesterday – normal Danish summer weather – which you can almost come to appreciate when you hear about the heatwaves elsewhere in the world.

Today’s route went south again with a detour along the east coast to the fishing village of Conche, where we had heard that local women had embroidered a modern version of the Bayeux tapestry (which is almost 1000 years old and tells the story of the battle of Hastings in 1066, when William the Conqueror and the Normans won over the English). The 70-metre long ‘cartoon’ was designed by a French artist and embroidered by 12 local women, which took three years. The embroidery is a lot like the original with little side stories in the top and bottom borders, and tells the history of the French Shore area so named because French fishermen from Brittany came here every summer to fish for a number of years. Just like the original it also had texts commenting on the stories told in it and quite a bit of humour. Amazing!

On the way back from Conche we stopped by a long wooden staircase leading up to a viewing platform. As you can see from the picture there was a great view of – nothing!

After a quick lunch in the small village of Roddickton, we got curious when we saw a signpost for an “underground salmon pool, so we drove down a small dirt road full of potholes, parked and followed the signs. We did manage to find a river that ran through a rock, but we couldn’t get close enough to see if there were any salmon in it.

So we continued southwards, and wondered about the small fenced in vegetable gardens we saw right by the roadside but far from any houses. We guessed (correctly, we later learnt) that the gardens are placed here because the soil is too poor elsewhere and that they are fenced in to keep the moose out – there should be quite a lot of moose here in this area. We didn’t see any, though. But Ole did see a black bear cub by the roadside in the morning. It ran away before I had a chance to see it, and I kept telling him he’d made it up. But in the afternoon we both saw another black cub, which also ran close to the road, and this time we managed to stop and take pictures! And that’s when we started humming the children’s song about little Ole who met a bear in the woods – and realised that it couldn’t possibly be a Danish song, as we haven’t had bears in Denmark for centuries, so it was probably originally a Swedish song about little Ola.

Late afternoon we drove through the beautiful Gros Morne National Park again – big (gros) gloomy (morne) mountains on one side and and the Bonne Bay fjord on the other until we reached the village of Woody Point, where we are to stay in Aunt Jane’s B&B in an old house, which more or less looked like when aunt Jane lived in it. We grabbed a burger in the retro diner across the street. We could see that the locals were setting up their camping chairs in the yard of the local fish factory further down the road and found out they were preparing to watch an outdoor screening of ‘ET’, but we went to bed early with our books instead of joining them. Ole has now recovered from his cold – but of course not without passing it on to me 🙁

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

22. Juli: Hvorfor var Leif den lykkelige egentlig lykkelig?

Vågner til en halvvåd, halvtåget morgen i Hay Cove så langt nordpå, som man overhovedet kan komme på The Rock, som Newfierne kærligt kalder deres ø. Efter Wendys lækre morgenmad (Wendy passer Jennys B&B, mens Jenny holder sabbatår), kører vi de få hundrede meter hen til L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (navnet er lidt underligt fordi en del af det oprindelige franske stednavn Meduses er blevet forvansket til Meadows af englænderne). I mange år troede de lokale, at der havde været en gammel indianerboplads her på stedet. Det har der også. Men i 1960erne kom nordmændene Helge og Anne Stine Ingstad til Newfoundland for at forsøge at finde stedet, hvor Leif den Lykkelige og hans vikinger gik i land og boede nogle år, mens de ledte efter Vinland. Ved udgravninger på stedet blev der fundet klare beviser på, at der faktisk havde været vikinger her. Man mener, de var på ekspedition fra bopladsen i Grønland på jagt efter forskellige råvarer, og at de måske boede her 5-10 år, inden de forlod stedet igen. Hvorfor de rejste, ved man ikke – måske ragede de uklar med “skrællingerne” (deres navn for de oprindelige indbyggere) eller her var for råt og ufrugtbart for dem? Vi så en film om stedet i Visitor Centre og en udstilling med nogle at de genstande, som blev fundet, og så fik vi en tur i området, hvor man både kan se jordvolde, hvor vikingehusene har ligget, og et par rekonstruerede huse befolket med rekonstruerede vikinger 😉

Stedet tiltrækker en hel del turister, så vikingetemaet får alt, hvad det kan trække med adskillige Viking Shops og restauranter som The Norseman, hvor vi spiste en i øvrigt rigtig udmærket frokost med udsigt over det lille fiskerleje. Hvis det ikke havde været halvtåget, havde vi sikkert kunne se helt til Grønland! Leif selv stod også og skuede ud over vandet, men hverken han eller nogen af de lokale vi snakkede med kunne forklare, hvorfor han var lykkelig…

Efter frokost besøgte vi Norstead, en rekonstrueret vikingeboplads ala vikingecentret i Ribe, som det nu ikke kan måle sig med. Så vi kørte i stedet til St Anthony, en mindre by lidt længere sydpå langs kysten, hvor vi gik på “sightseeing” i den lokale lettere søvnige shopping mall, samt gik en tur ude ved fyret på Fishing Point.

På vejen tilbage til vores logi spiser vi igen på The Daily Catch restauranten i det lille røde hus med den gode mad. Tilbage i Runestone House får vi en længere snak med vores værtinde om vikinger, danske vikingecentre og -markeder, og vi finder nogle hjemmesider til hende med ideer til vikingemad, som hun kan bruge til deres kommende .

English version:

Woke up to a rather wet, rather foggy morning in Hay Cove as far as you can almost get on the Rock, which the Newfies call their island. After breakfast cooked by Wendy (who is minding Jenny’s B&B while Jenny is on a sabbatical) we drive the short way to L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site (the name is a little strange because part of the original French place name Meduses has been anglicised to Meadows). For many years the local though this was an old Indian settlement. Which it was. But in the 1960s the Norwegian couple, Helge og Anne Stine Ingstad, came to Newfoundland in search of the place where Leif Erikson and his Vikings came ashore as the first Europeans to come to North America. They settled here and stayed for a few years while looking for the Vinland of their legends. And indeed the found the place here as later excavations proved. The Vikings are believed to have used the site as their base camp while exploring the area looking for raw materials before they packed up and left again. It is not known why they left again, perhaps they did not get on with the locals or the climate was too harsh and infertile for them. We started by seeing a film and an exhibition about the site in the visitor centre and then we went for a walk in the area where you could see earthen mounts where the Viking houses had stood and also some recreated houses inhabited by recreated Vikings 😉

The place attracts a good deal of tourists, so the Viking theme is used everywhere – we saw a number of Viking shops and also restaurants like the Norseman, where we had quite a nice lunch looking out over the tiny fishing village. If it hadn’t been rather foggy I’m sure we could have seen Greenland! Leif himself was also looking our over the ocean, but we couldn’t get him to explain why he is called “Leif den lykkelige” = Leif the happy in Danish.

After lunch we visited Norstead, a reconstructed Viking village like the Viking centre in Ribe, Denmark, but not quite as well carried out. So instead we drove to St Anthony, a small town a little further south along the coast, where we went sightseeing in the rather dull local mall and went for a walk out by the lighthouse at Fishing Point.

On the way back to our lodgings we had dinner again at the Daily Catch restaurant in the little red house with the good food. Back at the Runestone House we had a long chat with our hostess about Vikings and Viking centres and markets in Denmark, and we found her some websites with Viking food that she can use as inspiration for the local upcoming viking festival.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

21. Juli: Bjerge, blomster og masser af landevej

Ole var ret forkølet, så vi sov lidt længere i dag, spiste en portion havregrød og startede bilen. På vej gennem King’s Point kiggede jeg lige på en pottemagerbutik og tog flere billeder af små isbjerge. Så var vi tilbage på Trans-Canada Highway og kørte vestpå ad denne et stykke, før vi svingede nordpå og kørte i udkanten af Gros Morne nationalpark – en køn tur med høje bjerge på den ene side og fjord på den anden, indtil vi kom helt ud til kysten og kørte langs med Saint Lawrence-bugten de næste mange kilometer.  Spottede en elg et par gange – begge gange en ung enlig elg.

Stoppede ved to spændende naturfænomener – det første var Arches Provincial Park, hvor vind, vejr og vand har skabt naturlige buer i klipper nede i vandkanten. Det andet var i Flowers Cove, som er kendt for sine trombolitter – store flade stenagtige fænomener, som er skabt af alger og mikrober for millioner af år siden. De er meget specielle og findes kun her og i det vestlige Australien.

Men ellers bød dagen mest på kørsel, og om aftenen nåede vi så den allernordligste spids af Newfoundland. Spiste en lækker middag – gratineret torsk – på en lille restaurant kaldet The Daily Catch, hvor der var levende musik til maden: en lokal folkesanger med sin guitar. Han sang og spillede både kendte sange og Newfie (Newfoundland) sange, bl.a. En med omkvædet “The man in the moon is a Newfie”:

The Man In The Moon Is A Newfie – Lyrics ,

Så fortsatte vi det sidste lille stykke til Hay Cove, hvor vi skulle overnatte i Jenny’s Runestone House (alt her i området har vikingetema – mere om det i morgen).

 

English version:

Ole had caught a cold, so we slept a little longer today before getting back on the road. On our way through King’s Point I looked at a pottery shop and took some more pictures of the icebergs. We drove west on the Trans-Canada Highway before heading north through the Gros Morne National Park – a very pretty drive with big mountains on one side and the bay on the other – until we reached the coast and drove along the Gulf of St Lawrence for a long time. Spotted a moose a couple of times – yearlings most likely.

Stopped at two fascinating natural phenomena – the first being Arches Provincial Park, where the weather and the sea had cut natural arches in the rocks down on the beach. The other was in Flowers Cove, which is famous for it’s thrombolites – large flat stones created by algae and microbes millions of years ago. Very special and rare – only found here and in Western Australia.

Another long drive today, but in the evening we reached the end of Newfoundland’s northern peninsula. Had a very nice meal – cod au gratin – in a small restaurant called the Daily Catch, which had live music, a local folk singer with his guitar. He played both songs well known to us and Newfie songs, for example this one with the chorus “The man in the moon is a Newfie”:

The Man In The Moon Is A Newfie – Lyrics ,

Then we continued the last few kilometres to Hay Cove, where we will be staying for the next two nights at Jenny’s Runestone House (everything here has a Viking theme – but more about that tomorrow).

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

20. Juli: On the Road Again…

Ole havde på forhånd downloadet noget canadisk musik, men vi lytter også stadig meget til vores playliste fra USA-turen i 2016,  hvor denne her Willie Nelson klassiker selvfølgelig også er med:

Willie Nelson – On The Road Again (Official Audio)

I dag blev en af de dage på sådan et roadtrip, hvor det mest handler om at “æde” kilometer.

Men inden vi forlod hovedstaden, ville vi lige tage et sidste kig over St John’s, så vi kørte op ad den stejle vej til Signal Hill bag byen. Herfra kunne vi se, hvor stor byen faktisk er med den store naturlige havn og kunne skue udover Atlanterhavet.

DC3BB050-64D8-44BE-8D74-71124A359550 B4851C21-B5EF-4186-91AE-6ABFB568037D CFF8D263-F368-44FB-969F-39FDEAE098A3

Og så afsted nordvestpå ad the Trans-Canada Highway – kilometer efter kilometer – igennem et landskab med lav træbevoksning, krat og små søer. Vi hørte musik og lidt canadisk radio – jeg hæklede og Ole kørte. Vi overvejede at køre en ret lang afstikker op til nordkysten, fordi vi snakkede med nogen (på bryggeriet i aftes), som havde set isbjerge der for nogle dage siden. Men vi blev enige om, at det var for lang en omvej, så vi fortsatte mod vores Airbnb i Rattling Brook på Baie Verte-halvøen mellem Grand Falls og Deer Lake. Jeg googlede madsteder og fandt en café i King’s Point på vejen, hvor vi kunne få noget aftensmad. Og hvad var så det første, vi så, da vi kørte ned til caféen ved bredden af fjorden? Små stumper isbjerge! De var sikkert meget større og mere imponerende, da de i sin tid forlod Grønland, men nu er det trods alt blevet juli og lige lovligt varmt for et isbjerg, så vi var godt tilfreds med at se det eller dem (ved ikke, om det er et stort, som er gået i stykker undervejs, eller en hel isbjergefamilie på sommerferie til Newfoundland 😀

 

Ole had downloaded some Canadian music beforehand, but we still listen a lot to the  playlist from our 2016 USA road trip, which of course includes this Willie Nelson classic:

Willie Nelson – On The Road Again (Official Audio)

τηε Essenti+ 
ΙΕ NElSON

Today was one of those days on a road trip which is about driving and not much else.

But before we left the capital, we wanted to take a last look over St John’s, so we drove up the steep road to Signal Hill above the city. From there we could see how large the city really is with the big natural harbour and we could look out over the Atlantic Ocean.

But then we were on the road again / northwestwards along the Trans-Canada Highway – kilometer after kilometer – through a landscape of low trees, bush and small lakes. We listened to music and a little Canadian radio, I crocheted and Ole drove. We considered making a rather long detour up to the north coast, because we had talked to a couple in the brewery last night who had seen icebergs there a few days ago. But in the end we decide not to, so we continued towards our Airbnb I Rattling Brook. I googled restaurants and found one in nearby King’s Point, where we could have some dinner. And then – lo and behold – what’s the first thing we see when we drive down the hill to the fjord at King’s Point? Icebergs! Not giant ones, but it’s late in the season for icebergs anyway, and we’re happy just to see small ones.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

19. Juli: Had a whale of a time…

Vågner til en varm solskinsdag i St John’s, Newfoundland. Går en lang tur i byen som er endnu mere bakket end Lunenburg – og San Francisco! Den traditionelle byggestil minder om legohuse: firkantede og i de traditionelle legofarver. Vi knokler helt op ad bakken til The Rooms, byens kombinerede kunstmuseum og historiske museum. Interessante udstillinger, bl.a. nogle sjove fotos af newfoundlændere og irere (fra området omkring Waterford i sydøstirland hvorfra en meget stor del af folk i denne del af Nfl stammer) med samme navn og som ligner hinanden forbløffende meget!  Ned ad bakken igen til Water Street, byens hovedgade, hvor vi spiser frokost i delikatesseforretningen, The Rocket Bakery, Sjovt sted og lækre salater.

FC06A4FC-4D36-4288-82A8-7D9F3CBAC607 24A6939D-B981-487A-8CED-4EF1D5CB1091 E39F80DB-591E-47E2-B4EE-C592784DEDBB BC4A88FC-FE71-4176-AD50-8541EB9A3C73 400DCA68-8899-45AB-B6B2-D5FD171F6C3F 4BEDF0D9-BF72-4F10-8469-8D73E8358569

Tilbage til vores hotel og hente bilen for at køre sydpå til Bay Bulls med omvej over Cape Spear for at se fyrtårnet og den fantastiske udsigt. Sidst på eftermiddagen skal vi med O’Brien’s på hval- og fugletur. Mens vi venter på at komme ombord, kommer den forrige turs passagerer fra borde, og en ung mand hører, at vi taler dansk og vil lige sige hej. Han er nemlig også dansker og fortæller at han er kommet hertil for at blive forlovet med en af de lokale piger, som han har mødt på internettet!

Om bord på båden underholder guiden os med irsk folkemusik på vejen ud af havnen til Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, hvor vi håber at komme til at se hvaler. Og der går heller ikke så længe, inden kaptajnen spotter  prustet fra en hval og styrer båden tæt på. Det viser sig at være en finhval – den andenstørste hvalart, og han bedømmer den til at være ca 20 meter lang – det er halvanden gange længden på vores hus! Vi kan skimte dens lyse bug i vandet, mens den svømmer langs med skibet, og med jævne mellemrum kommer den op til overfladen og puster ud, så vi kan se dens ryg og rygfinne  – men det er ikke nemt at fotografere i farten på en gyngende båd 😉

Da hvalen svømmer væk, sejler vi over til et fuglefjeld, hvor der er tæt besat med søpapegøjer, sortbenede rider (meget små måger), lomvier og alke, som også sværmer over og rundtom skibet.

På vejen tilbage mod havnen får nogen øje på flere prustende hvaler, og kaptajnen lader sig overtale til at sætte efter dem. Det er en lille flok pukkelhvaler (sjettestørste hvaltype), som vi ser dykke med halefinnerne i vejret og en af dem springer sågar helt op af vandet lige foran os! Men den nåede vi desværre ikke at fotografere 🙁

Tilbage på land køre vi til Quidi Vidi, et lille idyllisk fiskerleje, lige udenfor St John, hvor der ligger et meget populært mikrobryggeri med samme navn. Foran bryggeriet står en fish&chips vogn, hvor vi bestiller et par fiskeburgere, som vi tager med ind i bryggeriets bar og spiser, mens vi smager på deres bryg og lytter til det band som spiller irsk folkemusik. Hyggelig slutning på dagen.

9B1246F2-9948-4ED6-BB4C-E4B680A61AD9 E75BB77D-FD19-4B60-9155-5DC224087D18 54FA5AA6-E057-45A8-984D-0D7DBC081DFA

English version:

Woke up to a warm sunny day in St John’s, Newfoundland. Went for a long walk in the city, which has even steeper streets than Lunenburg – and San Francisco! The traditional architecture reminded us a lot of Lego houses – square and in traditional Lego colours. We made it all the way up the hill to the Rooms, the city’s combo of art gallery and historical museum. Saw some interesting exhibitions, among other things we were fascinated by some photos of Newfies and Irish people from the Waterford area of Ireland where the majority of people in this part of Nfl comes from. The photographer had managed to find and pair up people from both places with the same names and an uncanny likeness! Down the hill again to Water Street, the main shopping street, where we had lunch the Rocket Bakery, a cool deli with nice salads.

Then back to our hotel to pick up our car and drive south to Bay Bulls with a detour to Cape Spear to see the lighthouse and the fantastic view. Late afternoon we had booked a whale and seabird safari with O’Brien’s. While we were waiting to board the boat the passengers from the previous tour disembarked and as a  young man heard us speaking Danish he came over to say hello. Turned out he was too was Danish and had come here to get engaged to a local girl he had met online!

Onboard the boat the guide entertained us with Irish folk music on the way out of the harbour to the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve, where we hope to see whales. It didn’t  take long before the captain spotted one and steered the boat close to it. It turned out to be a finwhale, the second largest whale in the world, and he judged it to be probably about 20 metres – that’s one and a half times the length of our house! We could see its pale belly in the water while it was swimming next to the boat and it came up to the surface to breathe regularly so we could see its back and back fin – but it wasn’t easy to catch on camera on a rocky boat 😉

When the whale swam away we sailed to a small rock island inhabited by a lot of puffins and other seabird (see picture of boards). The birds are everywhere on the rock and in the air over the boat.

On the way back to the harbour somebody spotted more whales and the captain agreed to go after them. It was a small group of humpbacks (sixth largest whales) which we saw diving and showing their tails, and one of them even jumped straight out of the water right in front of us! Which unfortunately we didn’t manage to catch on camera 🙁

Back on land we drove to Quidi Vidi, a picturesque fishing village just outside St John’s, where there is a very popular microbrewery of the same name, famous here for its Iceberg beer. In front of the brewery was a fish&chip van where we ordered a couple of fish burgers and took them into the brewery bar where we washed them down with their brew and listened to a band playing Irish folk music. A great end to a great day.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

18. Juli: Genveje og hulveje

I morges lagde Atlantic Vision til i Argentia, Newfoundland ved titiden lokal tid (de er en halv time forud for Nova Scotia – 4 1/2 time efter Danmark). Så snart vi var kommet fra borde holdt vi udkig efter et godt sted at spise sen morgenmad, og da vi spotter den hyggelige Philip’s Cafe i Placentia, må vi derind!

Det er Philip selv, som kokkerer, og hans kone, som laver kaffe til os. Morgenmaden indtages med udsigt over den lille havn og bugten, mens vi snakker med Marie, Philip og Ida hjemme i Danmark. Med fulde maver kører vi videre.

5374C9E7-B963-4B24-8E49-4A12D1D99922 FB646B10-91B8-4B51-ACB4-38BDB9BFBF0C 52C5300B-DA01-4777-9890-86A1D047DF7F 7318922A-DB81-4986-BA9A-51A272EB6B2A

Vi beslutter os for en genvej ad (hvad der på kortet ser ud til at være) en mindre vej, som hurtigere kan bringe os over til den udsigtsrute, som hedder The Irish Loop, som vi vil følge på vejen op til St John’s, Newfoundlands hovedstad. Vejen viser sig ikke at være mindre – den er OK bred – men vi opdager hurtigt, at den ikke er asfalteret ret længe – og faktisk er den fuld af huller! Så mange og så store at vores 20 kilometers genvej ender med at tage noget længere tid end forventet.

1B3F6449-404D-4989-978A-F07752CC51E3 4894F03F-ACD9-4524-AA4D-DA82EC430334

Men vi har den da for os selv – møder vel ikke mere end 4-5 biler på hele strækningen. Stopper ved en lille bro for at fotografere og opdager at den går over en slugt med flere vandfald og at der er fine trapper og gangbroer så man kan komme helt tæt på.

Endeligt når vi så ud til mere farbare veje og kan køre først sydpå og så nordøst på. Her er meget kønt og ikke mange turister eller biler i det hele taget. Philip’s kone havde givet os kaffe og nogle superlækre kanelmuffins med, som vi kunne nyde undervejs. Først på aftenen spiser vi aftensmad på Chafe’s Landing i det kønne lille fiskerleje, Petty Harbor, (superlækre fiskefrikadeller!), inden vi når St John’s og vores hotel med udsigt over havnen.

English version:

This morning Atlantic Vision docked in Argentia, Newfoundland around ten o’clock local time (which is half an hour ahead of Nova Scotia and 4,5 hours ahead of Denmark). As soon as we had left the ferry we started to look for a nice place to have a late breakfast, and when we spotted Philip’s Café in Placentia, we knew we’d found it. It was Philip himself who did the cooking and his wife, who made our coffee. While we were  having breakfast we looked our over the bay and talked to Marie, Philip and Ida at home in Denmark.

Having filled our stomachs we got back in the car and decided to take a shortcut along what looks on the map to be a small road that would take us over to the scenic route called the Irish Loop, which we wanted to follow to St John’s, capital of  Newfoundland. The road turned out not to be particularly smaller than the main road, but to be an unpacked gravel road with LOTS of potholes! So many and so big that our 20-Kilometer shortcut ended up taking us much longer than anticipated. But we had the road to ourselves – met only 4-5 cars during the whole stretch. Stopped at a small bridge to take pictures and discovered that it spanned a ravine with several waterfalls and that there were nice stairs and boardwalks so we could get quite close to them.

Eventually we reached more drivable roads and could drive first south and then northeast on the Avalon peninsula –  a very pretty drive with nt too many other cars. We’d asked Philip’s wife to make us extra coffee and pack some of her delicious cinnamon muffins, which we enjoyed on the way. In the early evening we reach the pretty fishing village of Petty Harbour and have dinner there – delicious fish cakes – at the Chafe’s Landing restaurant, before driving the last stretch to St John’s and our hotel overlooking the harbour.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

17. Juli: Under jorden og over havet

I nat boede vi lidt uden for North Sydney i bydelen Sydney Mines, så vi syntes, vi ville se en af de mange miner i området. I Glaze Bay er der lavet et museum over kulminerne, og det er pensionerede kulminearbejdere, som viser rundt nede i de minegange, som ligger i forbindelse med museet. Vores guide hed Abbie, var 80 år gammel og havde arbejdet mere end 40 år i minerne. Hans far og bedstefar (samt hans onkler og brødre) havde også arbejdet der, så nogle af hans historier handlede om de umenneskelige vilkår, faderen og bedstefaderen arbejdede under med meget lidt sikkerhed og elendig betaling. Vi blev iført kappe og sikkerhedshjelm og især hjelmen satte vi pris på, for der var meget lavloftet inde i gangene, så vi måtte gå foroverbøjet.

2D57878B-5FD6-486D-8C7F-B673FE0D9C63 0C26DDA8-DC7D-45C9-A836-63E4C10CFBA8 0D98C40B-7870-4950-941A-28C4040DE9EC

Efter minebesøget spiste vi sen frokost i restauranten i et af de små minearbejderhuse udenfor og kørte så til North Sydney, hvor vi skulle checke ind mindst to timer før vores færgeafgang. Det tog laaang tid at få alle bilerne ombord, der kunne de sørme lære noget i Skandinavien! Men omsider kom vi da ombord og fik lagt fra kaj. Senere spiste vi aftensmad (inkl. lækker gulerodskage med romcreme til dessert) i færgens restaurant, før vi gik til køjs i vores kahyt.

6E3BFF1B-EFE1-4B87-8132-75B09729FD3E 98CE6DA5-2D36-4988-AD99-45DEF4D01F3D 28C08619-B94B-4203-A41F-4B3897794123

English version

Tonight we stayed just outside North Sydney in an area called Sydney Mines, so we thought we should see one of the many mines in that region. In Glaze Bay there is a museum telling the history of the coal mines and the tour guides are retired miners, who take you down into the shafts they used to work in. Our guide was 80-year-old Abbie, who had worked in the mines for more than 40 years. His father, grandfather, uncles and brothers had also worked there, so some of his stories were about the terrible conditions his father and grandfather had worked under with very little safety and lousy payment. We dressed in capes and hard hats before going down into the mine itself, and we particularly appreciated the hard hats, because the shafts had very low ceilings so we had to crouch to walk there.

After the museum visit we had a late lunch in the restaurant in one of the small miner’s cottages outside it, and then drove down to North Sydney, where we had been told to check in at least two hours before the ferry for Newfoundland departed. It took a looong time to get all the cars, trucks and passengers onboard the ship (they could learn something from Scandinavian ferry companies here). But eventually we got onboard and sailed off into the sunset. Later we had a really nice dinner  – including yummy carrot cake with screech (local rhum) icing before going to bed in our cabin.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

16. Juli: A.G.Bell & Louisbourg

 

 

Glenville, hvor vi havde overnattet, ligger på vestkysten af Cape Breton, og da vi gerne ville helt ned til sydøstkysten i dag, stod vi tidligt op og kørte afsted. Undervejs købte vi ind til morgenmad i en sjov lille gammeldags købmandsbutik, som vi tilfældigt kom forbi. Det er hyggeligt at disse små butikker stadig kan overleve ude på landet, for i de større byer finder man mest kun store supermarkeder som Walmart.

Morgenmaden blev indtaget med udsigt over en lille sø, og så fortsatte vi østover. Ved Baddeck holdt vi ind for at se Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Bell, som opfandt telefonen, var skotte af fødsel, men byggede et stort sommerhus her i nærheden, hvor han tilbragte meget tid og kom til at betyde meget for egnen, og har derfor fået et museum her. Vi vidste ikke så forfærdeligt meget om Bell på forhånd, så blev overraskede over, hvor mange ting han havde arbejdet med og mere eller mindre opfundet. Han var f.eks. meget optaget af at hjælpe døve med at lære at tale, og opfandt senere end forgænger til jernlungen, da hans egen søn døde kort efter fødslen af vejrtrækningsproblemer. Men allermest interesseret var han nok i flyvning og var med til at bygge både flyet “Silver Dart” på fotoet og en hydrofoilbåd.

Således klogere på Bell fortsatte vi videre sydøstpå til Louisbourg Fortress Historic Site. Her byggede franskmændene i 1700-tallet et stort fort med tilhørende garnisionsby. Desværre blev fortet senere indtaget og ødelagt af briterne, hvilket var medvirkende til at Storbritannien til sidst vandt herredømmet over Canada, og i flere århundrede var det bare ruiner. Men i 1960erne og 70erne begyndte man at rekonstruere en del af fortet for at skaffe arbejde til arbejdsløse kulminearbejdere, og i dag er ca. 1/4 af det genopbygget og ser rimeligt autentisk ud. Fortet levendegøres i sommermånederne med soldater, håndværkere, tjenestefolk osv. Vi fik en gammeldags middag – suppe, fisk og grøntsager – altsammen spist iført servicet bundet om halsen og kun med ske!

Da vi havde set fortet, måtte Ole lige ud og vende ved det fine hvide fyrtårn på odden overfor, inden vi kørte til den tidligere mineby, Sydney Mines, lidt nord for Sydney, hvorfra vi skal sejle til Newfoundland i morgen.

English version:

Glenville, where we had stayed the night, is on the west coast of Cape Breton, ans as we wanted to get all the way down to the southeast coast today, we got up early and drove off. We shopped for breakfast at a coll little old fashioned grocery shop or general store which we happened to pass. It’s great that these little shops still survive out in the country, because in the cities you almost only find large supermarkets like Walmart.

We had our breakfast at the bank of a small lake and then we continued eastwards. In Baddeck we stopped to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Bell, who invented the telephone, was Scottish by birth, but liked this area so much that he built a large vacation home here where he spent a lot of time. He came to mean a lot to the local community and so there is a museum for him here today. We didn’t know all that much about about Bell beforehand and were surprised to learn how many things he had actually more or less invented. He worked hard to help deaf people learn to speak, and later invented an early version of the iron lung when his own son died shortly after birth because of breathing problems. But his greatest interest was probably aviation and he helped built both the Silver Dart plane in the photo and a hydrofoil boat.

Having learnt a lot about Bell we continued down to the Louisbourg Fortress Historic Site.

The French built a fortress here in the 1700s. Unfortunately the fortress was later captured and destroyed by the British, who went on to take over all of Canada, and for centuries only ruins were left of the fortress. But in the 60s and 70s part of the fortress was reconstructed to create work for unemployed miners, and today about 1/4 of it has been rebuilt and looks rather authentic. It becomes alive in the summer months with soldiers, trades people, servants etc. We had an old fashioned dinner – soup, fish and vegetables – all eaten with spoons and with napkins tied around our necks!

After seeing the fortress we made a detour to the nice white lighthouse on the cape opposite before heading over to the former mining village of Sydney Mines a little north of Sydney from where we will be sailing to Newfoundland tomorrow.

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail

15. Juli: Views and Whisky

Forleden dag gik vi forbi et skilt med teksten “Mondays are a terrible way to spend 1/7 of your life!” Men det gælder nu ikke sådan en pragtfuld solskinssommerferiemandag som i dag, så vi stod tidligt op for at få så meget ud af mandagen som muligt. Pakkede sammen og forlod vores lille skæve hus i Lunenburg. Kørte endnu et stykke af The Lighthouse Route, denne gang østpå langs St Margarets Bay til det mest berømte fyrtårn i Nova Scotia i Peggy’s Cove. Kønt sted – men meeeget populært blandt turister.

046F1DA6-971E-42F0-B8BF-F17CA567A5C9 BE330B76-0E1B-41B5-AF75-3E53CBAAF226 58E63F4F-E074-4835-9243-1E9F0F05C5D8

Resten af dagen blev brugt på at køre op til Cape Breton, det meste af vejen af The Trans-Canada Highway = motorvej, så ikke specielt ophidsende. Ved fire-tiden nåede vi Glenora Inn & Distillery, hvor vi skal bo i nat. Vi checkede ind og gik med på en lille guidet tur i distilleriet med en enkelt lille smagsprøve undervejs, og senere spiste vi i hotellets restaurant og fik en enkelt whisky til dessert. Udemærket whisky, men kan alligevel ikke helt måle sig med dem, vi smagte på sidste år i det gamle Scotland 😉

6F94595D-C914-4A27-9441-36CF868412AA E865B05C-166A-46FE-96D3-4302E501B61A B1842840-E64E-432B-80A9-7ADF516DF7D2

English version:

The other day we saw a sign in a shop that said

“Mondays are a terrible way to spend 1/7 of your life!”

And while that may be true for many a cold wet winter Monday morning, it certainly isn’t true for such a beautiful sunny summer holiday Monday morning like today, so we got up early to get as much out of our Monday as possible. Packed up and left our little sloping house in Lunenburg. Drove another stretch of the Lighthouse Route; this time eastwards along St Margarets Bay to the most famous lighthouse in Nova Scotia in Peggy’s Cove. Very pretty – but extremely popular with our fellow tourists.

The rest of the day was spent driving up to Cape Breton, most of the way on the Trans-Canada Highway, so not particularly interesting. Around four o’clock in the afternoon we reached the Glenora Inn & Distillery, where we will be staying the night. We checked in and joined a guided tour of the distillery which finished with a sample of whisky. Later we had dinner in the restaurant and had a whisky for dessert. Fine whisky, but doesn’t quite beat the whiskies we tasted last year in old Scotland 😉

 

 

 

Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestlinkedinmail